Smooth Foundation Application and Finish (Part 2) – By J. Raza

Dermaplaning? What is it?

Dermaplaning is a safe and simple procedure for exfoliating the epidermis and ridding the skin of fine vellus hair such as peace fuzz. This procedure has been used for centuries and very effective. However many estheticians don’t even know it exists. You must have a good hand for the practice, I personally use it on my clients that do not exfoliate so it can give a perfect smooth texture for that perfect foundation application. Some clients may worry and stick to regular exfoliating unless they know I do this procedure for myself.

I can say it took me some time to get comfortable and go ahead with it, just this year 2014 I have started it and said to myself wish I took to this practice many years ago. Dermaplaning, on the other hand, is a simple shaving of the epidermis, because dermaplaning is a quick procedure with few to no adverse effects, it has quickly gained popularity among cosmetic medical providers across the globe. Using a scalpel and a delicate touch, the provider simply abrades the surface of the skin using light feathering strokes. Instantly, you see dead skin peeling off and face getting smoother and clear. This is a great treatment to offer to patients who are pregnant or nursing that want a “deep exfoliation”, but are not allowed to use peeling agents on their skin because of the risk that the chemicals will be absorbed into the blood stream and may be transferred to the fetus or the child. It is also a first choice for patients who have excess vellus hair on the skin. This hair often causes a buildup of dirt and oils in the follicles, so removing the hair gives the patient healthier looking skin. It is a wise tale or myth assuming hair will grow back thicker and darker, as long as the hair is superficial vellus hair, it will grow back at the same rate and texture as before the treatment.

Removing epidermal skin also allows products to penetrate more readily into the deeper layers. Physicians may recommend this treatment to prepare the skin for medical procedures such as laser treatments or deep chemical peels. It, also, may be used by estheticians to prepare the skin for superficial chemical peels or before a cleansing facial.

Dermaplaning is most often used on patients with rough, dry skin, superficial hyperpigmentation, mild acne scarring, or fine lines and wrinkles. The treatment results in a more refined, smooth, “glowing” appearance. I can first hand say this is true, since I have performed such treatment of clients before make up application over a dozen times. Some physicians may use a surgical scalpel but I personally use a different kind of scalpel. For some of you who like to research this procedure, go ahead and type it in on and you will see many videos demonstrating with different types of scalpels, and what kind of strokes should be made for safety and to get the dead skin. Doing this procedure properly is what will give you a deep exfoliation. In Japan, this is a known common practice, many say reason the women there have great skin.

Make sure the blade in the scalpel isn’t dull, some clients may have really bad skin and the blade may go dull, so keep a few handy so you may use a new one.

Hold the blade at a 45° angle, and start abrading the surface with precise movements in the opposite direction of hair growth. It is important to develop a pattern, such as starting at one side of the face and finishing at the other, to ensure that all areas are covered.

NOTE:  If another peeling procedure will be used, ensure that you use extra caution; the peel will penetrate more deeply after you have removed the superficial layers of skin.

There is no downtime with this procedure, many practice it once a month and some may feel once a week is good for them to get that great skin finish look while wearing make up afterwards.


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